Chiang Kong to Luang Namtha to Nong Khiaw to Luang Prabang

I left Chiang Mai Thailand midday Friday the 16th, i was sad to see it go, it's a really wonderful city. I took a six hour bus ride to Chiang Kong Thailand, and i met a guy from the Netherlands on the bus , sharing our likes and dislikes about John Grisham (he was reading) and Tom Clancy (which i was reading). Villim and I checked into a hostel when we got there, Great place overlooking the Mekong river and Laos. i sat and wondered what the Communists would be like, how scary they would be in the garb and utter distaste for western culture. It was in this hostel i met the only deadhead i have met yet. Richard from California had seen over 300 shows, since 72'. Jealous was i of course. We also met another guy from Holland and a guy from Greece and after two days in Chiang Kong, we had played it out, features included, giant catfish, 4 feet plus long, a Thai Elvis and Micheal Jackson impersonator/ performer/ air guitarist, and the second most spicy meal i have ever had, green curry fried rice. I was forced to sweat through that whole meal. The four of us decided to team up for the next few days and took a pickup ride to the Thai boarder crossing with (in total) 2 Dutch, 1 Spaniard, 1 Lithuanian, 2 South Africans, 1 Greek and 2  from the Czech Republic, with a Thai driver and 1 American keeping track of it all, amazing to meet so many people from so many places in one place. Crossed the boarder and luckily, because everyone needed US currency, i went right to the front of the line, then straight to the back because i forgot to fill out my exit card, damn! had to pay for my visa in Laos, with US dollars, thought that interesting and odd. "Can i pay for this in Kip", Laotian currency, fingers pointing to the sign and a disgruntled look, "30 US dollars",  he had been through it for the last 10 years ever since Laos opened its boarders. Here is where he had been sent to work, taking that finger out and pointing at the US Dollar sign to every confused foreigner, day in and day out. He looked beyond board and frustrated, and i don't blame him, they taught him to point but not how to say "US dollars only". Boarders aside, which are never fun, no matter where you go, so far Laos has been a trip, starting the first morning when Georgio the Greek went on and on about his fish breakfast that no one else had eaten, convincing me even that i would have loved fish for breakfast. His joy didn't last too long as he lost his breakfast in the mini van on the way to Laung Namtha, four times. Quite curvy as it turns out, the Lao mountains are. A new Spaniard, David, joined us for the ride and we have spent, the five of us, three days together. Hitting the streets of Luang Namtha the first day, exploring Laos by mountain bike the second day and by motor bike the third. We mountain biked for 4 hours, we had a late start as someone hopped on one of our bikes and took off for an hour, still am not sure why or who did it but the bike owner came riding back to us with it. No one speaks much English here and getting  a round is certainly more difficult yet more interesting too. The scenery was beautiful, hills, huts, pigs, cows, temples, rice paddies and jungle lined dirt roads. We stopped to take a picture and noticed a homemade rice whiskey still, nothing like a fresh from the tap shot of hot rice whiskey to start the day and then again on the way back to end it. The next day I got a 125cc Susuki moped, Villim the Dutch was apprehensive and rightfully so, he dumped his bike over .4  seconds after getting on it. He was fine after some minor first aid. After a trip to the repair shop we got the bill for the damage, 120,000... Kip about 30 usd, I am currently a kip millionaire, no big deal. we headed to an Aka village, the long way. The day before we had tried to mountain bike it there, then trying to walk it, then finally quitting it, darkness started to fall as rapidly as the temp which reached to a low of 34 degrees. So the next day we were determined to reach the village, this time we brought some fire power, we road the long road through the mountains to the distant Aka black Thai village. I had such an amazing experience in this small hill top village. We were like five aliens landing on a foreign planet, the children came running out to great us, women and men stood with big smiles. I, in front of about 30 villagers, preformed my only magic trick an got a lot of ohhs and ahhs and was subsequently asked to do it again 10 more times. We all drove home that night, five metal steads charging into the sunset with wide grins. The next day, Villium and Arian and I decided to head to Nong Khiaw Laos, An amazing little town nestled in a valley connected by a long bridge, I had a bungalow with a porch and hammock over looking the Nam uh River, It was a fantastic spot. i spent three days there, hiking to caves used by the pathet Lao government during the Indochina wars , i hiked my way to waterfalls and two villages where i was greeted with smiles and a sat in a hut and shared fresh oranges with some of the locals, none of who could speak more than one word of English. The communist flag hangs high in this town but you would never know it. Life with or without the flag changes nothing for these people. i was in awe of the beauty and simplicity of it all as i sat by the river over looking fisherman and children splashing around in the water in there respective ways. I grabbed a boat back to town and was able to see the mountains from a whole new angle. The limestone Karats were formed 250 million years ago when tectonic plates smashed into one another, pushed these mountains from the earth. Over the years slowly they have been eaten away by monsoons and have formed the most beautiful shapes, they look like a rock climbers paradise. In contrast to how old they are, the Himalayas are only 50 million years old, crazy right? Villium and i decided to head to Luang Prabang yesterday, leaving Arian. We were once 5, now only two but as we checked into a guest house, looking at the client list, we had found Georgio, who we had left 5 days before in Luang Namtha. Just dumb luck, so last night we drank some BeerLao, sat and took in all the excitement that was Christmas eve here, not so much for the locals but the foreign contingent is the highest here than anywhere since Chaing Mia Thailand so it was a blast. Woke this am, looking at our xmas tree ( i found a 14 foot bamboo pole in the jungle and have carried it for 4 days so we can decorate it for xmas) so by tonight, a few BeerLao cans and some other junk will be hanging off it, which with be hanging off our balcony overlooking the main street. I am pumped. I had to bribe the slow boat driver who took us down the Mekong yesterday to take it with us but it was worth it. Everyone seems pretty jealous of our tree, because they stared at me carrying it for the last 4 days, i know those looks, Villim swears they were looks of bewilderment but i know better. Soon every house in Laos with have one for the 25th. Well, that's the news that's fit to print. I miss you all on this day, as everyday, but i hope you have a wonderful Christmas and you stay safe and happy. Much love, Jah bless and a Merry Christmas. 

the 4 horsemen 

Villagers amazed at Davids hair, they all wanted to touch it. too great

the face of the communist threat in Laos, keep your guard up

a life unchanged

the bside of the bridge, we would make our way in a small wooden boat for 6 hours don this river to the Mekong

Sunset from the best side of the bridge in Laos. Villim and i sat here three nights in a row and marveled till the sun went down. we watched as couples held hands, so we held beers and our bamboo pole, we were just as happy. we are not gay, not that there is anything wrong with it

Photo catch up 2, Thailand

My first of many, many, many temples. They brought this HUGE Buddha down from Northern Thailand a few hundred years ago. Bangkok Thailand

Ringing bells, Golden Mount, after my trip to the tailors, Bankok Thailand

The Enlighened one, Golden Mount, at the top, two Jade Buddhas in the back

Two HUGE guards, doing what they doing what they do best, Temple Arun, "Temple of Dawn" Bangkok Thailand

Part of the Temple of Dawn, made from pieces of pottery left by the Chinese Junks which needed to dump weight, Amazing temple but not my fav

Stuppas, you can see the staircase to the top right about ^ there to give it some scale, massive

 free meal courtesy of the King on his birthday, cubed blood and various organs

The great "Reclining Buddha" of Wat Pho, each Buddha Image, one of eight i think, shows a different part of his life. This is where he reaches Nirvana. its at least six stories long, mother of pearl inlay on his feet. My favorite Buddha, Bangkok

Adding gold leaf to a Buddha shine

The small and gentle giant Goen, taking pics for his mom of the flowers Chiang Mia, Northern Thailand, my home for the last week

Muti headed Naga, or "mythical serpent", 14th century abouts, Wat Chedi Luange, Chiang Mia

Enjoying a cappuccino today, just under a buck

Hippo at Chiang Mia Zoo where i spent all day today

Yep, he got this close, i mentioned he needed a tooth cleaning but all i got back was puzzled looks

Feeding the Elephants, i gave him bananas and he gave me snout snot, the price you pay, i took it as an even trade this guy is only 27 years old. Well that's it for now, i have a ton more photos of course, more later, got packing to do, hope to be Laos tomorrow or the next day or the next. Jah bless

Photo catch up 1, Hong Kong through the Philippines

The first of many firsts, showering while standing on the toilet, first hostel, Kowloon Hong Kong

I want YOU on this trip. self portrait uno Hong Kong

Dinner with the interior decorator, pigs blood time, Hong Kong

Anyone want any chicken ass or intestine on a stick? me either, Makati Philippines

Pacquiao fight with the Rojas Fam, Makati Philippines

ENCA farm, WWOOFing it in Acop Philippines

First day of work, Mr. Machete time. Glad i brought some Carhartt gloves, slice of home

This is where i took my first shower after 4 days of sweating it out in the Jungle

This is how good it felt.

Sunset on the farm

The Swiss couple, Maude and Vincent, miss these guys, oh and Ollie the cat, miss him too, not his fleas

My favorite tricycle, of course, Bontoc Philippines

hangin with the locals, Banaue Philippines

The beach kids, Raneer in the front, Mika on the right and Janiepoe out back, Pundakit Beach Philippines

They had to take a pic of the white face, under my bamboo hut

Sunset on the beach, i have a million of these, i will spare you the rest

Island hopping in a banka

One of the three featured in the sunset... second to last day in the Philippines

Chiang Mai

Three nights ago as i sat with Goen, Toben, a youngish German, who was eager to drink that night and seemed like he was not going to take no for an answer and Anthony the oldest and i would use wisest, but that't not really the right word for it, most traveled? he had a walk, a steady calm, a confidence of sorts, an Australian, with dreads. And me, seeing his long dreads made me a bit jealous as i removed my hat to feel my bald spot. Goen had met these two on the internet and they were all planning the slow boat trip down the mighty Mekong into Laos. I was not part of the plan, it was OK, i had my own plans and the nagging fortune from the day before in the back of my mind. Having spent the last two days with Goen i knew i would miss his company but was also ready to go it alone again. After they made there plans, dinner was on everyone's mind, so we set out for the Sunday walking market in hopes of some delectable street food. It is never hard to find in Thailand as abundant as mosquitoes. We hit the flooded market four strong, it was the largest group i had ever been with in my month long trip and it felt odd. It gave me the feeling of walking down shakedown street one looking back for the others, making sure no one was left behind. Anthony reminded me of Colin, seemingly to stop without notice and seemingly unworried about losing the group. I have come to terms with Colin's way of doing things on his own time and so i did for Anthony even though i was STARVING and wished he would put some pep into it. We entered a temple grounds right off the main street that had traffic blocked to turn it into a walking street, i love that. As we entered there was a makeshift food court, i also love the term food court, the idea of so many options so close together. I love a food court. We dispersed and decided to meet again at the tables with our chosen meals. Goen and Toben, able to speak the same language, went one way and i lingered trying to decode a menu as Anthony plotted along to one of the many carts. We all seemed to enjoy our chosen meals as we discussed, mouths full, who was going to buy and try the fried crickets first that we had all encountered on our trip. I had green curry soup with chicken and bamboo with noodles, it was amazing and spicy. Toben bought the crickets and we all stared at each other. Many of you very well may have had them before, but for me, at home in Vermont i remember the way they smushed when i stepped on them when i found them in the basement and the idea of that happening in my mouth was not that appetizing. we all grabbed one and with a cheers down they went. Nothing really, i was expecting something, but it was just crunchy. No big deal. Everyone seemed disappointed haha, i can see their faces. Goen after his second trip around the court and never full no matter how many meals he ate took them, as no one else wanted the rest, some 100 crickets. He reminded me of Chuck "you know me, i could always eat" i have heard him say a million times. We walked back to our guest house and on the way i bought some fresh pineapple. The Thais sell fresh fruit everywhere and sometimes they have these little packets of salt, sugar and chili ground together to dip your fruit in, quite nice really. we got back to our place and Anthony, reminded Toben of the early hour in which there trip would commence as he ordered a round of beers with a knowing smile, he headed for bed. One Aussie down we looked around and picked up another. Dorrian was his name and i grabbed my cards and dice and taught all three how to play, 3man, 7/11 doubles, up the river down the river, golf and of course, Asshole. All of which are American drinking games for you old folk reading this. The night passed with laughter and the shouting of Chuck D, i don't know how to spell it but its a Thai version of "cheers". After i had particularly hot hands at 7/11 doubles, Toben decided i was in need of a good natured headlock as he was on the receiving end and had been doing all the drinking. As he let go he said, arm around me "are you sure you don't want to go with us tomorrow"?, Goen seemed to heartily agree that i should. Even beer's effects on social moral aside, it felt good, i mean why wouldn't right? I debated, and as the night ended and the seven flights of stares seem to go by in a blink of an eye i was doubting my plan and my fortune from the day before "you should not go" i read. The next morning came and i awoke with a smile. I was happy, truly and a bit surprised and a little impressed. I decided to get some brunch it was close to noon anyway. I headed out for some grub, green curry was on my mind. I found it and a laundry mat, i was beginning to smell, mental note of its location. I tried to find a huge temple that i could see from the hotel and i walked into a sign on a different temple wall that offered mediation workshops every Monday at three. I checked my watch, Monday, 1:00 pm, awesome. I found the temple that i was looking for and walked by a bunch of westerners talking with Monks and as i made my second lap around the grounds i stopped and looked unaware of the sign just in front that said literally "don't just stand there and stare, come talk with a Monk about Buddhism", i chuckled to myself. Not really knowing what i want to talk about i sat with three Monks, i asked about suffering and loss and burdens to carry. We discussed reincarnation and finding your calling in life. I left admittedly tearful, for a whole host of reasons. I sat with 15 minutes to spare before my mediation workshop and thought about those who i have lost and wondering where they were in the world now, assuming reincarnation is real. It was nice to know that the world had not lost all my friends and family members spirits. That maybe they were here around us not as a being that hovers over us as i have liked to imagine them, but as other people, or birds or the like. i walked to my mediation session feeling better. I entered a small temple and was unsure just what i would find and i found a Monk sitting with his eyes closed as i knelt to make my silent approach (always be lower than a monk is) his eyes opened and i sat down in a cross between bewilderment and awe as he spoke. I felt like this was something mind alteringly special, and that i had just stumbled upon it, so haphazardly. Suddenly the hairs stood up on the back of my neck and i knew my fortune had been right all along, this was the start of something.    

Bye bye Bangkok, you almost killed me

I left Bangkok for Chiang Mai last Thursday on the night sleeper train. I spent two days on Khoa San rd in Bangkok and after two nights of 4am bedtimes i had seen enough, plus my feet hurt from dancing all night. I had spent the nights drinking and dancing with an Englishman, drinking with him but not dancing i should amend my statement. James was a good bloke who lives in Australia now. A seasoned vet of travel i absorbed as much of his wisdom as i could as i do with every traveler i meet. The day i was to leave Bangkok i waited for my Swiss friends to arrive at Khoa San rd, in the heat, trying my best to re-hydrate after all the Chang beer had forced it from my body the night before. At two in the afternoon i was no further in my quest as it seemed i had been when i was checked out of my hostel at the wee hour of 11 am. Feeling sick, tired and irritable as i was forced to undergo more harassment from every street vendor as i had been for the last two days. Brazen in there attempts to sell you something, they would often interrupt you at dinner, grab your arm as you walked passed or follow you for half a block assuring you that you would look great in a Thai suit. The Swiss couple, Maude and Vincent, smiling as they called out my name, lifted my spirits but did little for my throbbing head. We hugged and embraced and i instantly remembered why i loved them so much. They were happy, confident and always seemed to be smiling even when an argument ensued in french about some fact that seemed to have been disputed many times in the past. They were both able to readily stand there ground but end the small disagreement with a smile and a wink to me, content in their camps. I dig it. It was great to see them and catch up, they had spent one more week at the farm and i was anxious to know how it went. After a too short, hour and a half we hugged, said our well wishes and parted. Them on a seeming endless guest to find a copy of lonely planet India, in french, and I to the train station. Always worried about arriving on time, i got there with almost two and half hours before departure. I was excited to head north but it did little to help my energy level. I found solace in a bowl of noodle soup with pork that was delightful for the cost, 1 USD. After trying to read but still feeling under the weather i gave up quickly. Boarding he train and finding my berth i wondered who i would meet in the other three berths that made up our sleeper room. A rather large but outgoing Slov ( i have since been told that his 100 kilo weight was nothing abnormal for his country and i day dreamed about a country full of giants) was the first and an English girl second followed by a Thai man who spoke not one word of English, we waited and waited as and hour plus passed after our supposed departure time, running on Thai time i heard over and over again. The Slov, named Goen had brought three beers and he offered me one with a smile but i told him i probably had at least three in my system still and that i probably wouldn't touch the stuff for days to come (i would be proved wrong about that prediction the very next day) After a pleasant but cold sleep i woke in Chiang Mai our trip had taken 16 hours but i only noticed about three of them, thankfully. Exiting the train i had no plan, no place to go, no one to go with but there was Goen, in the same boat, we headed for a taxi. I am always aware of my presence and never wanting to impose myself on others, i  find it awkward to say "want to try this together?" but i am getting better at it. We arrived at our first guest house and entered looking for lodging. The lowest price point was 150 Bhat, about 5 bucks but they were full and the next price point was 250 (eight and a half USD)  but it came with its own bathroom, small balcony, fan, queen sized bed, a cold water shower but haha, no toilet paper, written right on the room list. I took it, knowing i would want to find a cheaper room the next day i asked that if anyone left from the 150 rooms that i be considered, "Cahhhh" the Thai said behind the counter, deal struck i headed up the 6 flights of stares, there was no elevator. That night against all my predictions i found myself drinking at a bar complex made up of two authentic reggae bars with live bands and three that rotated reggae with some pop and r&b. I have found a bar heaven if there ever was one. One drink turned into many and there i was dancing again to a live reggae roots band with my giant Slav friend and a Fin we had picked up along the way. If there was one time or place that i knew my friends would like the most it was here alongside the sounds of the Jamaican people. I missed you all, but as i have had to do many times i pushed those thoughts aside in an effort to concentrate on the now, to enjoy the moment, to live here in this time and not what could be or might have been (coincidentally that being a a Buddhist principle was at odds with the last of the five Buddhist precepts "no intoxicants", this trip might find me returning a lay Buddhist, with some exceptions of course)  but we stayed till they kicked us out even then lingering outside the doors with other travelers sharing trip advice, where to go, what to see and how best to get there. Crashing on my bed again pledging to not drink again for a few days i slept. Yesterday brought a late rise but a new, cheaper room with a giant king bed, it must be two queens put together (i only utilized a third of it last night) but no bathroom and on the 7th highest floor. This hostel might be my favorite yet. Yes i have to share a bathroom but the toilet actually has a seat, a real, attached, toilet seat, this one perk was worth extending my stay (which i have since done for a at least four more days) I wish i had packed a bag full of toilet seats i could make a killing over here. My hostel is funky with Buddha statues everywhere, a fish pound, it must have been a grand hotel in its hay day but with no elevator most tourist with money will not be lugging there stuff up 7 flights, it fell into disrepair but still sports a good sized decently clean pool. Lucky again. swimming that morning i was able to shake most of my ills. after a walk to a market and having some wonderful street food, extra spicy, i felt normal for the most part and decided to make the trip with Goen to a hill that loomed over Chiang Mia, where a elephant, white as snow, had trampled though the jungle carrying a Buddhist relic on is back till it died, there on that spot the most beautiful and one of the most sacred of temples was built and when i arrived, Goen in tow i was blessed with holy water kneeling in front of a monk, given a bracelet of holy cotton and had my fortune read though a process in which you kneel in front of a Buddha, shacking many sticks in a wooden cup till one falls out. You get the number off the stick and proceed to read the fortune that corresponds. Mine was "you should not go" i had been debating leaving Chiang Mai for Laos early to float the Mekong with Goen and a Austrian he had meet but something had been saying in my mind to stay and so, on this holy mount, this sacred place my mind was made. I would stay and say goodbye when the time came. The temple aglow, can be seen from my window high and distant in the hills and looking at it for a while last night I believe i am making the right choice even if it means being on my own again. i was able to say no to another round of reggae music and slept from 9:30 to 11:00 am i find myself in great spirits and looking at Goen this morning his eyes barely able to open i knew i had made the best decision. he agreed, he looked like death and i felt sorry for him as he climbed the never ending staircase for more sleep. Spicy fried noodles and a 50 cent fruit (pineapple and orange) everything is right in the world. tonight is the famous Sunday night street market and while i wait for the giant to rise from his giant slumber i write to you all. Be well my friends! love and peace

Long Live The King!

Hey all, I arrived in Thailand two days ago. I got into the city late and by the time i got to my hostel it was 11 and since i started my day a 4 am being driven by tricycle to the bus stop by a guy with no shirt or shoes that everyone calls Tarzan, i was wiped. Slept late, for me these days, but when i did get my butt in gear i jumped a water taxi in search of the fabled backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. My map was not the best one and i am not the best map reader and the Thais don't make it easy, i wound up in front of the first of many temples i would see in my first two days. Giving up on my search and deciding a temple would be a nice start too, i entered. Always weary of anyone that is overly friendly, "backpacker rule number 1", i was stand offish when a man asked if i wanted to go inside. I asked with a grin how much and even with his broken English i could understand the word free clearly. "Today free, all Bangkok temple", why i asked, "King Birthday". Well luck shines on me again. Whipping out a map he proceeded to give me the best route to see as many temples as one man can see in a day and alerted me to the fact that the Thai government, with its deep love for there King, had given the tuktuk (three wheeled taxis) drivers a mandate to ferry any foreigner around the city Wat tripping for the whole day, for 20 Bhat, about 65 cents USD. Well, look at that. So i jumped in, forgetting "life rule number 1", nothing is free in this world, nothing, except love, and in Bangkok that costs too. So off we went, i was told i could take my time, and he would be waiting when i got out. So i experienced my first temple where an enormous standing Golden Buddha is erected (take a look, http://www.lawstude.net/2008/03/temple-of-standing-buddha.html ) it was an amazing sight, i learned how to pray, and for a small donation i was able to write on a roofing tile. I can't tell you what i wrote because then it won't come true, well, that's not true, i made that up. But suffice it to say if any of you start a run of good luck you can thank me later or you can thank me by sending me money, that works too, whatever you feel comfortable with, i mean, you know i AM all alone out here, starving, living in squalor... just sayin, i mean you do love me right?:)  But if for some off chance things don't go your way, that ones on you. After my first temple i was alerted to the fact that we would need to make a pit stop. Alright, sure where too i asked? "Rob a white guy alley, beat up a foreigner corner?" "Just the state sanctioned travel agency so i can get a gas stamp", refer to life rule number 1. O.K., so there i was looking stupid in a travel agency, that i didn't need to be at, not needing any info, looking at a rather unhappy agent and after about 5 minutes i said, "i might be back.". I wouldn't be, but back into the tuktuk i went off to my next temple. The Golden Mount (check it out http://www.sacred-destinations.com/thailand/bangkok-wat-saket-golden-mount.htm)It was amazing, they all are really, each in its own way. After climbing the 300 stairs and banging on my fare share of gongs and ringing my fare share of bells, i was back in my tuktuk, "i am sorry sir we have to go to the official Thai Fabric Exporter". Before i could ask anything he hit the gas, well shit, aight i guess, i mean i can help this guy out right? i mean all i am paying is what, 65 cents. So there i was sitting in front of a tailor, looking dirty, and certainly not someone who looked like he wore a lot of suits, i spent 15 minutes going over fabric styles, suit dimensions, colors until i leaned over and said "look buddy, i am not sure that i really need a suit you know, i am backpacking for a year and well, there is no way i am fitting this suit in my bag for 10-11 more months you know?" Well damn if he didn't have an answer for that one. "today in honor of the king we will send it home for free!" dang it all King! I took about 5 more minutes before i said i would think about it and come back later. i wouldn't be coming back. On to the next temple Mr Kong, or Kang or Kung! i never did hear it just right. Getting out i heard a large growl in my stomach and realized that i had forgotten to eat. Surely my driver would not want me to experience all these temples on an empty stomach i thought. i walked the street outside in search of food. Food is never far and i noticed a lot of white people eating at a few outside spots, (backpacker rule 22, where white people go is most likely not as cheap or authentic) so i turned and right there i saw a feverish line of Thais and some where yelling, who knows what. So i decided to stand in line, everyone was eating what looked like noodles on a plate and a bowl of soup. As i got to the both, i was handed a portion of noodles. I looked back and there was another white guy behind me, i asked "do you know whats going on here?" he didn't, but noticed that there wasn't any money exchanging hands. Maybe its free i thought, he thought that could be the case as we shuffled ahead to where the soup was being ladled out. (i remembered life rule number one and scanned for a tailor or travel agent. i didn't see any) i got my soup and tried to ask how much and just got a bunch of bows. Maybe the King had something to do with this truly free meal. So i sat on the side walk and finished the noodles, delightful. Then i was able to truly inspect the soup, I went digging and found an egg that looked as if it was from the 50's (they eat those here) some more congealed blood and what i could only guess was some animals dietary track. I was going to have to pay for this meal, my price was eating it, damn rule number 1! i tried a little of everything repeating Lauren's mantra over and over in my head "do it for the stories, do it for the stories, oh that intestine is chewy, keep going, do it for the stories" i couldn't finish it, well i could have but i wasn't about to get sick all over the street. That was one story i could do without. Full and happy i was on to the next temple. It was not as majestic as the first two but no one was there so i got a hands on look and walk through with a very helpful lay Buddhist. As i exited, i noticed no Mr Keng, "Mr America sir" My driver had gained about 75 pounds and grew a beard. "Driver had to go, i take you the rest of the way, for same same price". No that's not a typo, "Same Same" instantly became my new favorite saying, and i hear it a lot. All right, didn't matter to me really, one driver as good as another and one tuk tuk being as good as any other, same same, i got it. "Sir we go to Chinese Jewelry store, you look interesting, no buy look, look only, 10 minute only" ahhh crap. So, there i was, "oh THIS is jade, no i think i like that red one, oh that's 1,000 dollars huh? that's it? oh dang it doesn't fit, how about this one? how much is that?" wondering if my act was working, the facial expression never changing, i guessed not. "oh you have postcards! i will take three" Frowns. snatching them out of my hands and into a bag. Phew, that over with, alright lets Wat. "We go to tailor first", my driver said, "that's it i'm done, no more, you have sucked the life out of me", "what u mean Mr America?", "nothing, i am going to huff it from here" but looking around i had no idea where here was, "alright! one more and then that's it" it was getting late and i didn't want to be late for the Kings Birthday party. So there i was again, another tailor... blah blah blah after sweating it out over prices i would never settle on for 10 minutes i was out the door. Thank the gods. I didn't have much energy after that, that last tailor was quite persistent on getting a down payment. i proceeded on to the festivities. It was like nothing i have ever seen. There are some seven or eight million Thais in Bangkok and every last one of them was there. It was the biggest birthday bash on the planet i have no doubt. It also was a claustrophobic's nightmare. I watched not understanding one word, not one, for about 3 hours some singing, candle lighting, fireworks, flag waving and Chinese lantern floating it was over. trying to get out of the heat that was made by so many bodies in one place i wandered in the direction i thought my hostel was in, a river of lanterns floating over me climbing ever higher. I had to stop and ask directions and was told the nearest skyrail home was too far to walk to. I decided i better try and walk less i get in another TukTuk and have to stop for cloths and jewelry five times on the way home. so an hour plus later i was on the skyrail, two trains and 4 blocks later i was "home". Tired, feet sore, i collapsed on my bunk hoping my other seven roommates wouldn't make too much noise...it had been a good day in Bangkok.

My sun sets on the Philippines

This will be my last blog post from the Philippines, i leave for Thailand on Saturday. I spent my most wonderful day here so far yesterday when i finally rented a Banka to take me to the islands you can see in this pic (it was taken from my front porch). When i got to Pundakit beach, where i have been living for the last week, i knew that somehow i would get to them (not that it was some great feat, you just need money, but still). They seem deceivingly close, maybe close enough to swim to i first thought. But after watching the many boats leaving for them everyday and watching them turn to tiny dots on the horizon my dreams of getting there for free where dashed. Asking around town i was quoted 1000 pesos repeatedly, once even 1500. i held out and as i made friends that owned boats of there own there price growing less by the day but running on what is referred to as Filipino time, those offers never materialized. Still i stayed hopeful that i would get there for less but as the days wore on i was preparing myself for the real possibility of hiring anyone at any cost. As luck would have it the ever resourceful Auntie Olivia mentioned that her brother had a boat and he might be able to take me. The next day i was offered to be taken for 350 as long as my guide Richie could fish while i explored. I spent the day hiking the big island, exploring the old Spanish outpost that sits swallowed by an ever determined jungle to reclaim what was once apart of it. I finally was truly able to put the snorkel gear that i had lugged this far to its proper use. Harvesting my inner Jacques Cousteau i marveled at the sea life, coral and fish. I caught a long glimpse at a eel, watching it hunt from afar, very afar. I saw my first rather good sized octopus. Fish that were small, large, schools and loners. I saw fish with such bright psychedelic colors i knew right away it must be a deadhead. I watched fish change colors as it laid lazily in wait for its next meal, Jimmy Buffet fan i figured. Some were scared of me at first sight, others stared at me wondering much as the locals do here "what is this white face dong here". I found my ample belly helped me coast above these miniature seas city's without much effort from my arms and legs, much like my snorkel gear, i was thankful that i was able to use it finally, for a good purpose after lugging it all this way (besides scaring the averagely slim locals). I was ferried to all three islands and found the crystal clear waters of lore. Getting an early start i had swam, skipped stones and searched for that ever elusive perfect sea specimen that i could take home with me for four hours, all before lunch. I watched as Bankas jockeyed for position in a sea alive with jumping tuna. The tuna i watched unaware that their feast of small fish, their effort for survival, would lead to there eventual demise, and my next dinner. I ate fresh tuna, fried with... wait for it... rice! what else? Sigh. I will not miss that part of the Philippines. As the day wore on i climbed an outcrop of rock and suffered my first casualty a small but relentlessly bloody cut. i at first paid it no mind, but remembering some fact about sharks being able to smell blood from some ungodly distance away. I stayed put till the pressure i was applying would stop it from making me the whitest and slowest moving target in the sea. I have had to swim all these days with a shirt on, having no one to put lotion on my hard to reach middle back. It was odd at first, common place now and i have been able to avoid the suns fiercest weapon. The day came to an end and my driver, do you call them that? my captain had caught nine tuna, both of us satisfied, well, the only words spoken to each other that we both understood were those understood only by the widest of grins. It had been a wonderfully fulfilling day and i mentally checked seeing the islands of my to do list as we coasted through the blue waters that reflected the tremendously blue skies above. Many of you no doubt have swam like i swam and seen fish and sea creatures greater then these but for me, it was paradise fulfilled. Landing on the beach and thanking el capitan i set out to quench my ample thirst under the trees you see in this picture. The rain began to fall and i welcomed its cooling ability. It had been the first drops of rain since i had gotten here. I was able to finally convince myself that my cloths smelled bad enough to do a wash. So, this AM as i sat with my coffee reflecting and writing in my journal while watching the sea and my cloths drying.

To the children: You will never read this, but i wish you well. Raneer, your big smile and easy laughs have made my days funner and reminded me of my younger brothers. At 4 years old you are smarter than your age and even though all you do is repeat the words that i say someday you will understand them and have a bright future, stay curious. Ronnick, the trouble maker of the group. I can tell your life hasn't been an easy one and i choke up a little seeing where you spend your nights. i hope i was able to impart just s little bit of guidance in you. You often worked your darn est to get me to buy you something, repeating Jack, chips, jack chips over and over, but i was proud of you when you returned that necklace to the man who dropped it, i know i made you but you did the right thing and look you got the chips after all. Janiepo, i truly hope that black eye was gotten by some wrestling match and not the proverbial "fall down the stairs" i fear the worst. i have not met your parents as i have most the other kids but you have been forced to grow up early. i have seen you carrying your little sister everywhere even though you yourself, not to long ago needing carrying of your own. Mika, stay cute little one, your mom loves you. And little baby Justin who was born to the Bungalow family not more than 10 days before i arrived here, you have a great cook and caring mother and a fun and smart farther who wakes up early to fish and stays up late working in the store. I don't know most of your names but i enjoyed showing you my only magic trick, your the only ones that ever really liked it haha. Be well and safe.

To the other friends i have met, some of you may read this, Rona and Kevin, thank you for taking me in and giving me a free place to stay and someone to talk to, joke with and sing with, even though i hated every minute of my Aerosmith renditions, you were encouraging. Aunti Olive, thanks for trying to help me get to the lost waterfall as i will always remember it and thanks for being a good friend, i have really appreciated it. In a land where i have none you were the closest thing to. Rondell, Ludi, Benz, Raymond, Mr. Bert, Marie the chef, Oliver the fisherman, Rob the cop and your wonderful wife who cooked for me on your one day off. There is more but thanks, truly and as many of you have said, come back, you have to come back. I just might. I will certainly try.


In closing, it is with bittersweetness that i leave the Philippines. Happy to be heading west, but sad to go away from the closet thing to home i have felt yet. Its only been three weeks, I know haha, i am making it more dramatic per usual right Lauren :), but thanks again. Get on that trash problem and put down the rice for one meal and i will definitely be back. promise. Alright Thailand, you ready for me?