Get ready here's Delhi

Finally escaped Bangkok with my life. I arrived in Delhi about 8:30 pm. I hate getting into a new city after dark, everything is so much harder and when you wake up, everything looks different. The flight was fine, in fact, great. I had some decent food, a empty seat next to me and we didn't crash. I got through immigration OK which is becoming a bit of a problem. I now look nothing like my passport picture and it takes a few glances at me, the photo, me, the photo and then a long stare during which i sort of put my hand over the beard, smile and raise my shoulders as if to say "beards, they happen, you know?". Bags in hand and into the cab, got to my guest house fine, slept like a baby. After 7 days in the sweat lodge that was my last room, the cool Delhi night was welcomed with open arms. I woke once to a call about 12 pm asking if i had change for a 500 rupee note, i said i didn't, they said, sleep. I said I would but they had hung up already. I woke again when the phone rang at 8 am asking if I wanted any tea. I said I didn't know, my eyes weren't open yet. There was a long pause, then, "sleep", i really tired to hang up first but missed the receiver. I woke today on a mission. Train tickets. had to get me some train tickets. I left the guest house and decided not to come back, they seemed less friendly then last night when i was checking in. That always seems to happen. They assured me i wouldn't find a cheaper place in all of Delhi, i told them that it sounded like i would be back then, if that was the case. It wasn't, i found one actually, a cheaper place, right next door. Odd, i don't think they have a solid grasp on the guest house market in New Delhi. I thought about letting them know, but i decided against it, i will call tonight at 12 and tell them. i walked out of my new guest house, i have no idea what the name is, i lost track of the names since Laos. I walked though the small back alleys looking for the way out of the mouse maze and some guy said "hello sir" i said, "hello" he responded with "have you been here before?", as a general rule you say yes for a number of reasons. "Yes a few times", "because you know the way your walking is a dead end", i looked up, it sure the heck was. "oh yeah, yeah, i ahhhh always make that mistake", he smiled pointing in the right direction. I am staying in Pahar Ganj, the backpacker ghetto, there isn't many of us really. in fact all the ones i have seen look like they have been here awhile. I heard that can happen to you, seriously. People come in but not everyone comes out. But the point is its on the Main Bazar a wild hodge podge of dinning, cloths, shops and people , cars, cows, rickshaws and motor bikes. Potholes, dog poop, tea shops and street food. Its pretty neat. I went in search of the railways station, which according to the lonely planet was THE place to buy tickets if you were a foreigner. i am so that's what i was looking for and a really kind young man walked me right to an official government run travel agent. What a kid. I sat through what i knew would be a hopeless effort to book a ticket with, John, my very friendly, slowly turning very unfriendly agent. After he gave me the grand finally price and i looked at it, it was half my total budget for 6 weeks in India, and we were only on the first week of the tickets i needed. I said i needed to go. Again, i didn't follow my gut, i let this kid, who was waiting for me outside when i got out, to walk me right into the lions den. I was hungry and getting frustrated and was tired of telling him over and over that i in fact i didn't need any of the really good hash he had for cheap. My neck less told him otherwise. He persisted till i walked into a dinner to get something to eat. I sat frustrated, looking at the menu and a guy asked to join me. He was a white guy, but played the part of an Indian. He was a hari chrisna priest. At first i wanted to kick the chair out from under him and run but after we started talking i couldn't have been more thankful that he had sat down. He spoke perfect hindi and over Aloo Gobi and some fresh Naan we talked about trains, he confirmed what i already knew. i needed to go to the train station and he would be happy to show me the way, he was walking there anyway. I opened the door and the kid was still waiting for me, my new friend spoke a few words and i haven't seen him since. He also walked me to the train station after assuring me that he would not try to convert me and there i found what i was looking for. After a hour of waiting i had my first two tickets. I head to Varanasi tomorrow and from there to Khajuraho. From there i will decide, probably Agra, to the Taj, i have heard its decent :). I left feeling a world better and with a new German friend, Samuel. i found him a room in my nameless guest house and i went to the roof to spread my cloths out so the sun could kill or drive the only souvenir i had gotten from Bangkok from my cloths. Bed bugs, lots of bed bugs. I have bites well, a lot of places. i, am, itchy, as, shit. So there i was, sitting with a Israeli, watching the skyline and enjoying the sunshine when a few hawks started to circle over us. A few more, then a few more. Before we knew it there was maybe 150 huge hawks flying right over us. On the roof next door there was a man with a large bowl and he was tossing meat up into the air. I have never seen so many massive birds in one place swooping and diving, clawing and biting. only a few times did they fight over a bit of meat and when there claws finally came lose you could literally hear the crack. It was awesome. we sat and looked into the bright blue sky and were speechless. i sat for an hour before he was done getting rid of the meat.

National Geographic eat your heart out. i walked out of there thinking wow! India! i quickly dodged a fast moving rickshaw only to run straight into the path of a even fast moving Elephant. i stood jaw open as it lumbered by, painted from ear to ear. Now, here i am about to embark on the wildest of wild, a trip within a trip a dream within a dream, are you sure you can't come?