Saturday, December 10, 2011

Bye bye Bangkok, you almost killed me

I left Bangkok for Chiang Mai last Thursday on the night sleeper train. I spent two days on Khoa San rd in Bangkok and after two nights of 4am bedtimes i had seen enough, plus my feet hurt from dancing all night. I had spent the nights drinking and dancing with an Englishman, drinking with him but not dancing i should amend my statement. James was a good bloke who lives in Australia now. A seasoned vet of travel i absorbed as much of his wisdom as i could as i do with every traveler i meet. The day i was to leave Bangkok i waited for my Swiss friends to arrive at Khoa San rd, in the heat, trying my best to re-hydrate after all the Chang beer had forced it from my body the night before. At two in the afternoon i was no further in my quest as it seemed i had been when i was checked out of my hostel at the wee hour of 11 am. Feeling sick, tired and irritable as i was forced to undergo more harassment from every street vendor as i had been for the last two days. Brazen in there attempts to sell you something, they would often interrupt you at dinner, grab your arm as you walked passed or follow you for half a block assuring you that you would look great in a Thai suit. The Swiss couple, Maude and Vincent, smiling as they called out my name, lifted my spirits but did little for my throbbing head. We hugged and embraced and i instantly remembered why i loved them so much. They were happy, confident and always seemed to be smiling even when an argument ensued in french about some fact that seemed to have been disputed many times in the past. They were both able to readily stand there ground but end the small disagreement with a smile and a wink to me, content in their camps. I dig it. It was great to see them and catch up, they had spent one more week at the farm and i was anxious to know how it went. After a too short, hour and a half we hugged, said our well wishes and parted. Them on a seeming endless guest to find a copy of lonely planet India, in french, and I to the train station. Always worried about arriving on time, i got there with almost two and half hours before departure. I was excited to head north but it did little to help my energy level. I found solace in a bowl of noodle soup with pork that was delightful for the cost, 1 USD. After trying to read but still feeling under the weather i gave up quickly. Boarding he train and finding my berth i wondered who i would meet in the other three berths that made up our sleeper room. A rather large but outgoing Slov ( i have since been told that his 100 kilo weight was nothing abnormal for his country and i day dreamed about a country full of giants) was the first and an English girl second followed by a Thai man who spoke not one word of English, we waited and waited as and hour plus passed after our supposed departure time, running on Thai time i heard over and over again. The Slov, named Goen had brought three beers and he offered me one with a smile but i told him i probably had at least three in my system still and that i probably wouldn't touch the stuff for days to come (i would be proved wrong about that prediction the very next day) After a pleasant but cold sleep i woke in Chiang Mai our trip had taken 16 hours but i only noticed about three of them, thankfully. Exiting the train i had no plan, no place to go, no one to go with but there was Goen, in the same boat, we headed for a taxi. I am always aware of my presence and never wanting to impose myself on others, i  find it awkward to say "want to try this together?" but i am getting better at it. We arrived at our first guest house and entered looking for lodging. The lowest price point was 150 Bhat, about 5 bucks but they were full and the next price point was 250 (eight and a half USD)  but it came with its own bathroom, small balcony, fan, queen sized bed, a cold water shower but haha, no toilet paper, written right on the room list. I took it, knowing i would want to find a cheaper room the next day i asked that if anyone left from the 150 rooms that i be considered, "Cahhhh" the Thai said behind the counter, deal struck i headed up the 6 flights of stares, there was no elevator. That night against all my predictions i found myself drinking at a bar complex made up of two authentic reggae bars with live bands and three that rotated reggae with some pop and r&b. I have found a bar heaven if there ever was one. One drink turned into many and there i was dancing again to a live reggae roots band with my giant Slav friend and a Fin we had picked up along the way. If there was one time or place that i knew my friends would like the most it was here alongside the sounds of the Jamaican people. I missed you all, but as i have had to do many times i pushed those thoughts aside in an effort to concentrate on the now, to enjoy the moment, to live here in this time and not what could be or might have been (coincidentally that being a a Buddhist principle was at odds with the last of the five Buddhist precepts "no intoxicants", this trip might find me returning a lay Buddhist, with some exceptions of course)  but we stayed till they kicked us out even then lingering outside the doors with other travelers sharing trip advice, where to go, what to see and how best to get there. Crashing on my bed again pledging to not drink again for a few days i slept. Yesterday brought a late rise but a new, cheaper room with a giant king bed, it must be two queens put together (i only utilized a third of it last night) but no bathroom and on the 7th highest floor. This hostel might be my favorite yet. Yes i have to share a bathroom but the toilet actually has a seat, a real, attached, toilet seat, this one perk was worth extending my stay (which i have since done for a at least four more days) I wish i had packed a bag full of toilet seats i could make a killing over here. My hostel is funky with Buddha statues everywhere, a fish pound, it must have been a grand hotel in its hay day but with no elevator most tourist with money will not be lugging there stuff up 7 flights, it fell into disrepair but still sports a good sized decently clean pool. Lucky again. swimming that morning i was able to shake most of my ills. after a walk to a market and having some wonderful street food, extra spicy, i felt normal for the most part and decided to make the trip with Goen to a hill that loomed over Chiang Mia, where a elephant, white as snow, had trampled though the jungle carrying a Buddhist relic on is back till it died, there on that spot the most beautiful and one of the most sacred of temples was built and when i arrived, Goen in tow i was blessed with holy water kneeling in front of a monk, given a bracelet of holy cotton and had my fortune read though a process in which you kneel in front of a Buddha, shacking many sticks in a wooden cup till one falls out. You get the number off the stick and proceed to read the fortune that corresponds. Mine was "you should not go" i had been debating leaving Chiang Mai for Laos early to float the Mekong with Goen and a Austrian he had meet but something had been saying in my mind to stay and so, on this holy mount, this sacred place my mind was made. I would stay and say goodbye when the time came. The temple aglow, can be seen from my window high and distant in the hills and looking at it for a while last night I believe i am making the right choice even if it means being on my own again. i was able to say no to another round of reggae music and slept from 9:30 to 11:00 am i find myself in great spirits and looking at Goen this morning his eyes barely able to open i knew i had made the best decision. he agreed, he looked like death and i felt sorry for him as he climbed the never ending staircase for more sleep. Spicy fried noodles and a 50 cent fruit (pineapple and orange) everything is right in the world. tonight is the famous Sunday night street market and while i wait for the giant to rise from his giant slumber i write to you all. Be well my friends! love and peace

1 comment:

  1. sounds like your having a hell of a time buddy. keep the updates coming.

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